At a shockingly-low 12% alcohol, Jean-François Ryon’s Trousseau from 2018 delivers a big punch with a profile that automatically made us think “Syrah?” The nose shows aromas of bacon, warm miso, blackberry, blueberry and plum. The palate is also burly. Flavors of plum, pepper, and anise are coupled with a woodsy greenness. The palate is tannic, but not overly grippy, and deep with fruit and spice.