自給自足的自然酒酒莊 Meinklang - The fully self-sustaining winery and mixed farm

Updated: Feb 4

Declaration.

It is a complete coincidence that we are stepping into the year of Ox in Hong Kong with the new arrival wines of Meinklang from Austria that feature a cow on the labels. For them, their herd of 800 or so cows are symbols of the soil fertility as well as vitality for the self-sustained farming.
2021年恰好踏入牛年,機緣巧合下,Wine guru新進口的奧地利自然酒酒莊Meinklang的酒標亦是以牛為主題。對Meinklang來說,他們所圈養的800多頭牛正正是展現酒莊肥沃的土壤以及他們對可持續耕作的堅持的最佳證明。

© www.meinklant.at

Meinklang.

Meinklang is more than a winery that practices biodynamic. It is instead a lively farm of 2000 hectares growing not only many indigenous grape varieties over 73 hectares but also land to their cattle, horses, pigs, sheep and a few chickens. Fruits, vegetables and herbs are as well everywhere. Biodiversity is key here. The winery’s name Meinklang means ‘My Sound’ denoting the concept behind the bottles: ‘harmony with nature’ which is exactly what’s happening at the family-run mixed farm which operates like an organism. Fodder from the farming activities is put to good use by the animals, and the manure from the animals are used as natural fertilizer in the vineyards.


Meinklang最與別不同的是他們不單是一個以生物動力學耕作的酒莊,更是一個佔地約2000公頃,生物種類極之多樣化,充滿活力的農莊。在碩大的農場裡,除了有73公頃的土地用作種植不同品種的本土葡萄外,內裡亦養著許多牛、馬、豬、羊、雞等動物,各種各類的水果、蔬菜、香草更是隨處可見。「生物多樣性」正是Meinklang的最大特色。


Meinklang的德文意思為「我的聲音」,蘊含了酒莊追求與「大自然和諧並存」的釀酒理念。為了實踐這一理念,這所家庭色經營的酒莊裡的農作物會被用作動物的飼料,而動物排出的糞便則是葡萄田最好的天然肥料。


Somló © www.meinklant.at

The farm of Meinklang is spread across the iron curtain going into Hungry which was opened up in 1989, letting the winery even more diversity and space in growing and making. Somló, an extinct volcano rises here which gives mineral rich soils to the vines of Hárslevelü and Juhfark.


就地理位置而言,Meinklang的農場由奧地利橫跨至匈牙利的Somló,這使Meiklang的風土更為多樣化,而當地的一座死火山更為匈牙利當地的Juhfark及Hárslevelű葡萄添加了極佳的磺物感。


In the cellar, Meinklang only works with natural and spontaneous fermentation without any additives and very little or even no sulphur. No hi-tech machines reside, just clean tanks and basic cellar instruments that can preserve all treasures from vines to wines.


釀酒方面,Meinklang只採用自然派的釀酒方法,酒液採用野生酵母自然發酵而成,過程中絕不使用任何人工添加劑,亦盡可能不添加硫(Sulphur)。此外,酒莊並無任何高科技的釀酒器材,只有最傳統的容器用以陳釀酒液,將葡萄轉化成一瓶又一瓶令人心動垂涎 的自然酒。


The Wines.


Burgenlandweiß 2020 (50% Grüner Veltliner, 40% Welschriesling, 10% Muskat)

Picked in mid August. Separately spontaneous fermentation in stainless-steel tanks and aged for 4 months on the fine lees. Light-footed and with open-hearted hospitality, the Burgenlandweiß invites you to take an aromatic walk at a hop step over magnificent orchards with all their variety of hay flowers and wild herbs. Fruity-laden juiciness provides friendly finger-wrestling with bone-dry consequence for vitality and increased drinking flow.


葡萄於8月中採收,不同品種的葡萄分別於不鏽鋼桶內自然發酵,並與酒泥一同陳釀4個月。釀成的這款酒不但非常清爽宜人,香氣更令人恍如置身於Meiklang的果園一樣,各種野生香草和花香撲鼻而來。酒體雖然乾身但果香卻十分充沛,是一款充滿活力的白酒。


Grüner Veltliner 2019

Harvested at the end of August. Spontaneous fermented after direct pressing. Aged for 4 months on the fine lees in stainless-steel. This Grüner Veltliner is characterized by independence and pleasure. Pronounced, it declines through the richness of facets of yellow-fleshed fruit with a skillful grip in the spice drawer. Slim, straight and yet playful, the multi-dimensioned lightweight sets the wide-open acid sails in the direction of juiciness and vitality.


葡萄於8月尾採收,直接榨取後自然發酵,並於不鏽鋼桶內與酒泥陳釀4個月。這是一款非常有個性的Grüner Veltliner,果香濃郁,各類黃色水果的香氣中又夾雜著一絲香料氣息,而極佳的酸度亦為賦予了酒體良好的平衡,是一款既Juicy而又充滿生命力的酒。


Vulkán #1 NV

Vulkán is a blend of two different vintages, 2016 Juhfark and 2018 Harslevelü growing in Somló, in Hungary, on volcanic soil. Due to the fact that Juhfark has to age longer that made logical sense. Both started fermentation on the skin for 2 days and then aged in old wood barrels. This type of soil brings a nice freshness and a fantastic stony minerality to the wine. Bone-dry and aromatic, this white has a beautiful exotic nose.


Vulkán是一款由兩個年份的酒混釀而成的作品,分別由2016年的Juhfark與2018年的Harslevelü混釀而成,這是因為Juhfark所需的陳年時間較Harslevelü長之故。這兩款葡萄均是匈牙利的原生葡萄,並於火山區的土壤種植。兩款葡萄均連皮發酵兩天,再於舊木桶中陳年。火山區的土釀為這款酒注入了極佳的磺物感和清爽度,而此酒亦擁有一種非常獨特的香氣。


Graupert Pinot Gris 2019

The vines are left to roam free and enjoy total freedom: “graupert” means wild in the local dialect of the Burgenland and stands for un-pruned Grauburgunder-vines. Harvested in late September. Two weeks skin fermentation in stainless-steel and then aged partly in concrete eggs and stainless-steel. With a yeast-cloudy face, but unclouded enjoyment and a full draw on the palate, the mash-fermented Grauburgunder impresses with its variety of aromas and density. He experiences the tightrope act between boisterous rusticity and graceful grace. As seen in Amber Revolution by Simon J Woolf.


這些Pinot Gris葡萄完全採用「無為」的方式種植,任由它的自由地生長。而Graupert在當地語言的意思為「野生」,亦代表了不經修剪的Grauburgunder葡萄。葡萄於9月尾採收,以不鏽鋼桶連皮發酵兩星期後再分別於水泥蛋及不鏽鋼桶中陳年。酒體雖然看來混濁,但入口卻毫不含糊,口感豐盈且香氣複雜,此款橙酒更在Simon J Woolf所撰寫的《橙酒革命》中獲得了高度評價。


Konkret Weiß 2018 (Field blend of Red, White & Gewürztraminer)

Harvested in mid-September. Fermentation with the mash over 28 days in concrete eggs and after pressing aged in them for another year on the fine lees. The Meinklang Konkret is the zeppelin of wines; it is of stately grandeur and inflexibility floating weightlessly on a calm and purposeful journey. It has the beguiling scent of a flourishing, botanical garden. The mouthfeel is mischievous but, at the same time, showcases the humility of a Burgenland farmer.


九月中採收的葡萄,於水泥蛋中發酵28天,並於榨取後與陳泥陳釀達1年之久。這是非常特別的一款酒,飲用時有如置身於一個充滿各種奇花異卉的植物園。口感獨特,展示了酒莊調皮的一面。


Blaufränkisch 2019

Picked in late September, fermented spontaneous over 10 days on the mash in open stainless-steel tanks. After a gentle press the wine aged 8 months partly in big used oak barrels and stainless-steel. Tight, powerful and straightforward, this good-drinking wine is unmistakably dedicated to the credo of experiencing its origin. With playful roughness and irrefutable truthfulness, this Blaufränkisch embodies pure and exuberant wine enjoyment.


葡萄於9月尾採收,並於開放式的不鏽鋼桶中自然發酵10天,輕柔地榨取後再於大型的舊橡木桶和不鏽鋼桶中陳年8個月。非常直接,札實,充滿力量的一款酒。這款Blaufränkisch絕對能夠以最純樸的方式將Meiklang 的風土展現出來。


Foam Weiß 2019 (Pinot Gris)

Picked at the end of September. Started fermentation on the mash for 5 days, pressed and bottled with 20 grams residual sugar. Finished fermentation naturally in the bottle. 7 months on the yeasts and then disgorged by hand. With the aromatic romance of the heart-warming scent of a fermentation cellar, this Pinot Gris with its pronounced vinous character, yellow-fleshed fruit and stimulating pepperiness makes the court according to the old school. Sparkling with joie de vivre, it moves dancing on the balance beam between juicy thirst quencher and filigree wine.


9月尾採收的葡萄,自然發酵5天後與20克的殘餘糖份一起裝瓶,並於瓶內完成最後的發酵。酒液與瓶內的殘餘酵母陳年7個月後再由人手除渣。這款Pinot Gris擁有非常吸引的黃色水果香氣,收結時帶有一點恰到好處的胡椒香氣,是一款別出心裁的Pet-nat。


Morgen, Edition 2 (St. Laurent)

A sparkling rosé although the fizziness is really light. Very complex and fruity in the nose with thousands of flavours like rhubarb, red currant, sour cherry, strawberry, cranberry and other red berries. Mineral, yeasty and with great acidity on the palate. Shake the bottle gently before opening the wine.


非常特別的一款氣泡玫瑰酒。此酒的氣泡感雖然不強,但果香卻異常地馥郁,且酒體複雜,帶有紅醋栗、酸櫻桃、紅苺、草苺等各種紅色果實香氣。這款酒不但擁有良好的磺物感和酵母香氣,喝起來更非常酸爽宜人。建議開瓶飲用前可先輕搖酒瓶。


To learn more: https://www.wineguru.com.hk/meinklang

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