Updated: Feb 4
It is a complete coincidence that we are stepping into the year of Ox in Hong Kong with the new arrival wines of Meinklang from Austria that feature a cow on the labels. For them, their herd of 800 or so cows are symbols of the soil fertility as well as vitality for the self-sustained farming.
Meinklang is more than a winery that practices biodynamic. It is instead a lively farm of 2000 hectares growing not only many indigenous grape varieties over 73 hectares but also land to their cattle, horses, pigs, sheep and a few chickens. Fruits, vegetables and herbs are as well everywhere. Biodiversity is key here. The winery’s name Meinklang means ‘My Sound’ denoting the concept behind the bottles: ‘harmony with nature’ which is exactly what’s happening at the family-run mixed farm which operates like an organism. Fodder from the farming activities is put to good use by the animals, and the manure from the animals are used as natural fertilizer in the vineyards.
The farm of Meinklang is spread across the iron curtain going into Hungry which was opened up in 1989, letting the winery even more diversity and space in growing and making. Somló, an extinct volcano rises here which gives mineral rich soils to the vines of Hárslevelü and Juhfark.
In the cellar, Meinklang only works with natural and spontaneous fermentation without any additives and very little or even no sulphur. No hi-tech machines reside, just clean tanks and basic cellar instruments that can preserve all treasures from vines to wines.
Picked in mid August. Separately spontaneous fermentation in stainless-steel tanks and aged for 4 months on the fine lees. Light-footed and with open-hearted hospitality, the Burgenlandweiß invites you to take an aromatic walk at a hop step over magnificent orchards with all their variety of hay flowers and wild herbs. Fruity-laden juiciness provides friendly finger-wrestling with bone-dry consequence for vitality and increased drinking flow.
Harvested at the end of August. Spontaneous fermented after direct pressing. Aged for 4 months on the fine lees in stainless-steel. This Grüner Veltliner is characterized by independence and pleasure. Pronounced, it declines through the richness of facets of yellow-fleshed fruit with a skillful grip in the spice drawer. Slim, straight and yet playful, the multi-dimensioned lightweight sets the wide-open acid sails in the direction of juiciness and vitality.
Vulkán is a blend of two different vintages, 2016 Juhfark and 2018 Harslevelü growing in Somló, in Hungary, on volcanic soil. Due to the fact that Juhfark has to age longer that made logical sense. Both started fermentation on the skin for 2 days and then aged in old wood barrels. This type of soil brings a nice freshness and a fantastic stony minerality to the wine. Bone-dry and aromatic, this white has a beautiful exotic nose.
The vines are left to roam free and enjoy total freedom: “graupert” means wild in the local dialect of the Burgenland and stands for un-pruned Grauburgunder-vines. Harvested in late September. Two weeks skin fermentation in stainless-steel and then aged partly in concrete eggs and stainless-steel. With a yeast-cloudy face, but unclouded enjoyment and a full draw on the palate, the mash-fermented Grauburgunder impresses with its variety of aromas and density. He experiences the tightrope act between boisterous rusticity and graceful grace. As seen in Amber Revolution by Simon J Woolf.
這些Pinot Gris葡萄完全採用「無為」的方式種植，任由它的自由地生長。而Graupert在當地語言的意思為「野生」，亦代表了不經修剪的Grauburgunder葡萄。葡萄於9月尾採收，以不鏽鋼桶連皮發酵兩星期後再分別於水泥蛋及不鏽鋼桶中陳年。酒體雖然看來混濁，但入口卻毫不含糊，口感豐盈且香氣複雜，此款橙酒更在Simon J Woolf所撰寫的《橙酒革命》中獲得了高度評價。
Harvested in mid-September. Fermentation with the mash over 28 days in concrete eggs and after pressing aged in them for another year on the fine lees. The Meinklang Konkret is the zeppelin of wines; it is of stately grandeur and inflexibility floating weightlessly on a calm and purposeful journey. It has the beguiling scent of a flourishing, botanical garden. The mouthfeel is mischievous but, at the same time, showcases the humility of a Burgenland farmer.
Picked in late September, fermented spontaneous over 10 days on the mash in open stainless-steel tanks. After a gentle press the wine aged 8 months partly in big used oak barrels and stainless-steel. Tight, powerful and straightforward, this good-drinking wine is unmistakably dedicated to the credo of experiencing its origin. With playful roughness and irrefutable truthfulness, this Blaufränkisch embodies pure and exuberant wine enjoyment.
Picked at the end of September. Started fermentation on the mash for 5 days, pressed and bottled with 20 grams residual sugar. Finished fermentation naturally in the bottle. 7 months on the yeasts and then disgorged by hand. With the aromatic romance of the heart-warming scent of a fermentation cellar, this Pinot Gris with its pronounced vinous character, yellow-fleshed fruit and stimulating pepperiness makes the court according to the old school. Sparkling with joie de vivre, it moves dancing on the balance beam between juicy thirst quencher and filigree wine.
A sparkling rosé although the fizziness is really light. Very complex and fruity in the nose with thousands of flavours like rhubarb, red currant, sour cherry, strawberry, cranberry and other red berries. Mineral, yeasty and with great acidity on the palate. Shake the bottle gently before opening the wine.
To learn more: https://www.wineguru.com.hk/meinklang